What is the Advantage and Disadvantage of Weatherstripping Manufacturers

Tension seal:

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Self-stick plastic (vinyl) folded along length in a V-shape or a springy bronze strip (also copper, aluminum, and stainless steel) shaped to bridge a gap. The shape of the material creates a seal by pressing against the sides of a crack to block drafts.

Inside the track of a double-hung or sliding window, top and sides of door.Moderate; varies with material used.Durable, invisible when in place, very effective. Vinyl is fairly easy to install. Look of bronze works well for older homes.Surfaces must be flat and smooth for vinyl. Can be difficult to install, as corners must be snug. Bronze must be nailed in place (every three inches or so) so as not to bend or wrinkle. Can increase resistance in opening/closing doors or windows. Self-adhesive vinyl available. Some manufacturers include extra strip for door striker plate.

Felt:

Plain or reinforced with a flexible metal strip; sold in rolls. Must be stapled, glued, or tacked into place. Seals best if staples are parallel to length of the strip.

Around a door or window (reinforced felt); fitted into a door jamb so the door presses against it.LowEasy to install, inexpensive.Low durability; least effective preventing airflow. Do not use where exposed to moisture or where there is friction or abrasion. All-wool felt is more durable and more expensive. Very visible.

Reinforced foam:

Closed-cell foam attached to wood or metal strips.

Door or window stops; bottom or top of window sash; bottom of door.Moderately lowEffective sealer, scored well in wind tests, rigid.Can be difficult to install; must be sawed, nailed, and painted. Very visible. Manufacturing process produces greenhouse gas emissions.

Tape:

Nonporous, closed-cell foam, open-cell foam, or EDPM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) rubber.

Top and bottom of window sash; door frames; attic hatches and inoperable windows. Good for blocking corners and irregular cracks.Low

Extremely easy to install, works well when compressed, inexpensive. Can be reinforced with staples.

Durability varies with material used, but not especially high for all; use where little wear is expected; visible.

Rolled or reinforced vinyl:

Pliable or rigid strip gasket (attached to wood or metal strips.)

Door or window stops; top or bottom of window sash; bottom of a door (rigid strip only).Low to moderateEasy installation, low to moderate cost. Self-adhesive on pliable vinyl may not adhere to metal; some types of rigid strip gaskets provide slot holes to adjust height, increasing durability. Comes in varying colors to help with visibility.Visible

Door sweep:

Aluminum or stainless steel with brush of plastic, vinyl, sponge, or felt.

Bottom of interior side of in-swinging door; bottom of exterior side of exterior-swinging door.Moderate to highRelatively easy to install; many types are adjustable for uneven threshold. Automatically retracting sweeps also available, which reduce drag on carpet and increase durability.Visible. Can drag on carpet. Automatic sweeps are more expensive and can require a small pause once door is unlatched before retracting.

Magnetic:

Works similarly to refrigerator gaskets.

Top and sides of doors, double-hung and sliding window channels.HighVery effective air sealer.

Tubular rubber and vinyl:

Vinyl or sponge rubber tubes with a flange along length to staple or tack into place. Door or window presses against them to form a seal.

Around a door.Moderate to highEffective air barrier.Self-stick versions challenging to install.

Reinforced silicone:

Tubular gasket attached to a metal strip that resembles reinforced tubular vinyl

On a doorjamb or a window stop.Moderate to highSeals well.Installation can be tricky. Hacksaw required to cut metal; butting corners pose a challenge.

Door shoe:

Aluminum face attachment with vinyl C-shaped insert to protect under the door.

To seal space beneath door.Moderate to high.Sheds rain on the exterior, durable. Can be used with uneven opening. Some door shoes have replaceable vinyl inserts.
Fairly expensive; installation moderately difficult. May require door bottom planing.

Bulb threshold:

Vinyl and aluminum

Door thresholds.Moderate to highCombination threshold and weatherstrip; available in different heights.Wears from foot traffic; relatively expensive.

"Frost-brake" threshold:

Aluminum or other metal on exterior, wood on interior, with door-bottom seam and vinyl threshold replacement.

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To seal beneath a door.Moderate to highThe use of different materials means less cold transfer. Effective.Moderately difficult to install, involves threshold replacement.

Fin seal:

Pile weatherstrip with plastic Mylar fin centered in pile.

For aluminum sliding windows and sliding glass doors.Moderate to highVery durable.Can be difficult to install.

Improving all weatherstripping types and repairing your existing weatherstripping is an easy and affordable way to make your home more energy efficient. Windows, doors, and other openings around your home with old, damaged or completely absent weatherstripping can leak cool air in the summer and hot air in the winter.

With a little information about types of weatherstripping that are available and tips on how to install weatherstripping, you can make your house up to 20% more efficient. When it comes to winter home improvement projects, this one pays off.

7 types of weatherstripping and their uses

When planning how to weatherize your home, you will want to consider various weatherstripping types. Weatherstripping comes in a wide variety of materials and styles, each with their own specific uses, benefits, and disadvantages. Let’s take a look at the common materials and uses for these readily available types of weatherstripping.

1. Tension-seal weatherstripping

This kind of weatherstripping is made of vinyl, aluminum, or stainless steel. The material is folded into a V-shape that creates spring-like tension when compressed to form a tight seal. Because of its shape, it is also known as V-strip or V-channel weatherstripping. This durable, nearly invisible alternative is good for sealing doors and windows. It does take some skill to install properly, and can make it harder to open and close windows and doors.

2. Felt weatherstripping

Felt weatherstripping is a traditional material that is one of the least expensive ways to seal doors and windows. It is easy to install and comes either plain or reinforced with a pliable metal strip. Unfortunately, it is the least effective and least durable option.

Use it on windows that are not frequently opened and to fill gaps around your home that are not subjected to movement. If you go this route, opt for all-wool felt, as it lasts longer than other types of weatherstripping felt.

3. Rolled-vinyl gasket weatherstripping

Flexible or rigid rolled-vinyl gaskets are a good choice along door jambs, window stops, the bottoms of doors and window sashes. They are a durable and weather-resistant option. When it comes to how to install weatherstripping of this type, the spools are easy to unroll and apply. It is also a moderately priced option.

One drawback of these weatherstripping types is that the material is visible once in place. And over time, the adhesive can break down and the material can peel away.

4. Foam weatherstripping

Foam weatherstripping is a type of compression weatherstripping that comes in tape form or attached to wood or metal strips for reinforcement. Foam tape is a good choice for irregular-shaped corners and cracks. Reinforced foam weatherstripping is good for frequently-used doors and windows. Tape is easier to apply, but it is not as durable. The reinforced variety is a bit trickier to install, but lasts longer.

5. Door shoe and door sweep weatherstripping

Door shoes and door sweeps are two ways to seal the gap between a door and the floor. A door shoe is made out of U-shaped aluminum that’s fitted with a vinyl insert and attaches around the bottom of the door. A door sweep is a wooden or metal strip fitted with a nylon blade that attaches to the outside of the door.

Both of these options are generally very durable, but they can be difficult to install. You may have to take the door off its hinges and plane it down to have enough space for the weatherstripping to allow the door to open and close smoothly without sticking.

6. Frost-brake threshold weatherstripping

A solid threshold works as a thermal bridge that transfers heat or cold between the outside and inside. Metal thresholds are very durable, however, they are efficient thermal bridges. In this case, efficiency isn’t a good thing. In winter, they can get cold enough that water condenses and freezes on them, which can lead to physical damage and mold.

Frost-brake thresholds divide the solid material with vinyl or silicone inserts that create physical divisions to interrupt the flow of heat or cold. Installation takes expertise, but if you live in a place that experiences temperature extremes, installing them might be worthwhile.

7. Pile weatherstripping

Pile weatherstripping consists of dense fibers attached to a metal strip. They are commonly used in sliding windows and sliding glass doors. They are difficult to install, tend to collect dirt, and can become unstuck over time. When properly installed and maintained, however, they are effective.

How do the materials of weatherstripping compare?

Various materials used in weatherstripping offer pros and cons that you will have to weigh as you consider ways to save energy in your home. Making the right choices can cut your average home power usage.

Vinyl vs. rubber weatherstripping

Vinyl vs. rubber weatherstripping choices are plentiful. In general, vinyl offers more shape and color choices and provides superior strength and durability. Both materials are flexible and easy to install. Vinyl is less expensive, but is a petroleum product. Rubber is an organic renewable resource, which is appealing to some.

Rubber vs. foam weatherstripping

Deciding between rubber vs. foam weatherstripping is a question of trade-offs. Rubber is a natural product, but can be more challenging to install than foam. It is more expensive, too. In extremely cold conditions and in direct sun, rubber can crack and break down. Foam is made from petrochemicals, so if you want only environmentally friendly, green products in your home, foam is not a good choice.

Rubber vs. felt weatherstripping

Rubber weatherstripping is more effective, easier to clean and more durable, than felt weatherstripping. It is also more expensive and harder to install. Felt is renewable and manufacturing it is less damaging to the environment. If you are looking for a green option, felt is a good choice.

How to install weatherstripping

Now that you’ve settled on the types of weatherstripping that work best around your home, the next step is to install it.

Start by doing visual inspection of your doors and windows to see where weatherstripping is damaged, inadequate or missing. Also, check for air leaks around your house to prioritize where to start your project.

You will begin by measuring the perimeters of all of the doors and windows that need weatherproofing. It is a smart idea to add an additional 10 percent to your measurements to account for mistakes. Also consider the thickness and widths of your materials so that you choose the right one for each application.

How do you replace weatherstripping around a window?

Replacing weatherstripping around a window is the same process as replacing weatherstripping around a door.

1. Start by removing all of the old weatherstripping. New weatherstripping must be applied to a clean, dry, flat surface to properly adhere.
2. Use a single, continuous strip along each side.
3. Make sure that the weatherstripping fits snugly together at the corners.
4. When in place, the window should fit tightly against the weatherstripping without being difficult to open.

The best weatherstripping in the world cannot overcome old, leaking windows. One of the best home improvements for resale value increases in your home is replacing broken and drafty ones with new energy-efficient windows.

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How do you seal a garage door?

1. If present, remove any old weatherstripping, making sure that the surface is clean, dry and flat when finished.
2. Measure the top and the sides of the garage door, and cut pieces of weatherstripping to size.
3. Starting along the top of the garage door, attach the weatherstripping loosely until the strip is completely in place. Then tighten all the screws.
4. Complete the same steps on both sides of the garage.
5. Test your garage door, ensuring that the weatherstripping does not interfere with the garage door’s ability to open and close.