How to work with really oily nails?

This article serves as a guide for nail technicians facing issues with clients experiencing nail lifting. Many clients express frustration when their manicures don't hold up, claiming they lost their nails or that they have simply popped off. Upon visiting various nail care forums, you often find the suggestion that oily nail plates might be the culprit behind these problems. However, let’s take a moment to reconsider this common notion. In my extensive experience working behind a nail station, I can only recall one client who presented with truly oily nail plates, and they also had excessively sweaty hands. In my years of practice, I have never relied on Primer, whether acid- or non-acid-based, and I have never performed more than meticulous nail prep. Remarkably, I have never encountered lifting issues. My process involves a simple cleaning and drying of the nail plate, never filing it. The takeaway here is that taking the time to thoroughly prepare the nails is crucial. It’s not just about being unique; it’s about diligence and attention to detail.

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rue life: I am physically incapable of making a manicure last more than two days. No matter what I do, the polish starts to chip by hour 48, leaving me seriously frustrated at the fact that I dropped hard-earned cash for what feels like no reason. Gel is slightly better, but instead of the two-week staying power that the bottle promises, I'm lucky if it sticks around for a week. Champagne problems? Yes. But still.

I always figured it was because I type too hard on my laptop (my keys have been known to fall off of my keyboard), but when I sat down for a manicure with celebrity nail artist Gina Edwards, who works with KISS, she blew my mind by telling me the real reason why my polish won’t stay perfect.

Your nails are oily, she told me matter-of-factly. The reason you have oily nail beds is because you have a high pH, so you're creating more oil within your nail beds. So you want to get a pH balancer for your nail.

Yup, apparently that’s a thing. I was familiar with pH-balancing skincare, which helps keep your skin in a pH "sweet spot" to combat issues like acne and rosacea, but had never heard the principle applied to nail care. But apparently, it's so common that there are even products out there to help combat it.

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It’s going to say "pH balancer, plus dehydrator," Edwards explained. This helps to dry out the excess oil on your nails in order to make polish last longer, which is a total game changer. If you're a member of the oily nails club too (you can tell by how shiny your nails are, and, in my case, whether or not your polish stays put), swipe on some of the serum underneath your base coat to hold the product in place.

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