Diamond Blade Dos & Don'ts

By Rebecca Kanable, contributing writer

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Diamond blades get beat up in a variety of ways. They get burned, stuck (and then hit with a hammer), bent and broken. It's not pretty and it's not good practice.

Whether you're using a diamond blade on a gas-powered saw, electric hand saw or walk-behind saw, a few words of wisdom can help save blades from misuse and abuse.

Factors affecting longevity
Blade life can vary greatly depending on a number of variables. One key factor is blade quality (diamond quality and concentration, and segment bond and width). Consider that two blades of the same diameter could have different diamond depths, amounts of diamond in the blade segment and segment heights.

As with traditional diamonds, there are different grades assigned to synthetic diamonds for saw blades. "A higher-quality diamond is going to perform better and definitely last longer," says Ted Skaff of Pearl Abrasive Co. In some cases, it may also grind or cut faster, as well.

Another key factor in blade life is the material that needs to be cut. Cutting a hard material such as concrete requires a different blade than one used to cut a soft, abrasive material such as asphalt. The harder material requires diamonds to be exposed more quickly, and a softer bond to hold the diamonds to the segment.

"You could use a blade designed for concrete to cut asphalt and it will cut really fast, but it won't last very long," says Thom Fisher with Diamond Products.

How concrete cutting impacts blade life depends on the aggregate size, sand type (sharp and abrasive or round and non-abrasive), aggregate hardness (determined by rock type) and reinforcing steel (amount, grade and gauge). For example, a coarser aggregate with a lot of sand will wear a blade faster than concrete with less sand and less aggregate, Skaff says.

However, softer and more abrasive green concrete will require a harder bond with undercut protection, Fisher adds.

How long a blade will be useful on a job depends on the amount of cutting that needs to be done. Using a blade to cut a driveway is different than using a blade to cut a long stretch of highway, Fisher points out.

The saw used with the blade also affects blade life. A tool with high rpm will wear a blade faster than a tool with low rpm, Skaff says.

The operator can shorten the life of a blade, as well. An operator applying more pressure will tend to wear out a blade faster than someone applying less pressure, Skaff says.

Tips for longer life
Given these variables, manufacturers offer the following dos and don'ts to maximize blade life.

Do use the right blade for the job. There are blades designed specifically to cut concrete, masonry and green concrete.

While general-purpose blades can cover a variety of cutting tasks, application-specific blades are engineered with a specific bond to meet the needs of a certain application. They do the best job and will last longer, Skaff says.

To help find the right blade for the task, Hobie Smith of MK Diamond Products Inc. suggests answering the following questions:

• What material are you cutting?
• What type of cutting equipment will be used?
• How much cutting will be done?
• How fast do you need to complete the job?

Do use a wet blade only when wet. A common operating mistake is using a wet blade dry. "A wet blade should never be used dry," Skaff says.

Fisher agrees, noting, "We get blades back all the time that are fried because water wasn't used. It doesn't take very long for the friction of concrete (or even asphalt) to burn up a blade."

Even dry blades can be used wet; doing so might actually increase production and blade life. Heat and dust are enemies of a blade, Skaff explains. Using a blade wet eliminates both enemies.

Don't bury the blade. Another common mistake is burying the blade all the way to the flange, or forcing the blade through the material being cut.

Forcing the blade through material will damage the saw by increasing the amperage, burning up the motor and overheating the blade, which causes premature wear and damage, says Skaff. He has seen blades burned so badly they have a purple rainbow around the rim.

Metal in the diamond rim can get so hot that it actually covers the diamonds. Glazing over diamonds on the rim can cause blades to dull and stop cutting, even though there's a lot of life left on the diamond rim of the blade, Skaff continues. This issue can be solved in the field by dressing the blade.

"You always want to let the blade do the cutting, whether you're using a handsaw, stationary saw or walk-behind saw," he adds. "That will increase the life of the blade and the life of the tool."

Smith advises using a step-cutting technique.

This involves making several passes to complete the cut. "In reality, you shouldn't even use half of the diameter of a blade," says Fisher.

Don't be pushy. Any equipment can fail if it's pushed beyond its operating limits; saws and blades are no exception. Avoid pushing a blade too hard just to get a job done fast.

Do install the blade properly. Often, saw operators will spin a blade in the wrong direction. While a blade will still cut if it's spinning the wrong way, the diamonds will be eaten up quickly, Fisher points out.

Pay attention to the directional arrows labeled on the blade to ensure the blade is installed properly and spins in the intended direction.

When mounting a blade to walk-behind saws, don't forget the drive-behind pinhole, reminds Fisher. In addition to the center arbor, the second hole on the flange steadies the blade and prevents wobbling.

Do use caution in the turns. Skaff offers another word of caution for walk-behind saws: "If your blade is an inch deep into a cut and you want to turn, don't rotate the saw while the blade is still in the cut. I've seen segments of blade bend and break because a machine changes directions while the blade is still in the cut.

"If you're going to change directions," he continues, "make sure your machine is off, the blade is up out of the cut and the machine is unplugged."

Contact us to discuss your requirements of diamond saw blade for stone cutting manufacturers. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

Resources available
Manufacturers offer manuals that cover diamond blade basics (how to use water, how to mount blades, how fast to spin blades, how to determine the proper size saw for the proper blade, etc.). Contact your saw or blade manufacturer directly, or work with your local dealer, rental center or supply house to make sure you have access to all the information you need to operate efficiently ' and, of course, safely.

What to Know Before Buying Diamond Blades

If you work in construction, it's more than likely that you own a diamond blade or two. Cutting through hard materials like concrete, asphalt, tile, brick, and stone can be challenging, especially when you're not using the proper blade. It can be a bit overwhelming trying to figure out which diamond blade to choose with all of the options out there.

There are four basic questions you should always ask yourself before picking a diamond blade for your next project:

What are you cutting?

The type of material you want to cut will determine what type of bond to look for. Bonds are the mixture of metals that hold the diamonds together and secure them on the blade. Different bonds have different wear rates depending on their density. Most bonds are referred to as soft, medium or hard. If you're cutting very dense concrete, a softer bond will perform best. It seems counterintuitive, but you want the bonds to wear down faster when cutting hard materials. That's because there are more diamonds buried in the bonding material below the surface of a new blade and as the blade wears down more fresh diamonds are exposed. The diamonds on a blade will either wear, fracture or get ripped off the blade. Proper wear is what you're after. If you're cutting brick or asphalt, you would want a blade with a harder bond. The diamonds will stay cooler when cutting softer materials which helps them maintain their integrity.

When choosing a blade and determining the hardness of bonds that you will be using, keep in mind that it will not always be listed on the packaging. Typically, the packaging of a blade will make it clear what the blade is meant to be used for. If a blade is made for cutting concrete, the packaging will say concrete and show a picture of concrete. It's also important to remember that bond strengths are listed differently from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Bond strengths can be listed in numbers of 10,20,30,40,50 or ,,,,- it just depends on who is producing them. Some companies even label bond hardness by color. Just remember: the lower the number the softer the bond, and the higher the number the harder the bond.

What kind of saw are you using?

Each saw spins at a different RPM, and most blades are designed to be spun at a specific RPM. Installing a mismatched blade on your grinder or saw will result in inefficient cutting and could even lead to serious injuries. The blade package should state the blade's proper RPM range.

Is it a wet or dry saw?

Years ago, most diamond blades needed a continuous supply of water to keep them cool. That's because the diamonds were silver soldiered in place and couldn't handle the heat. The diamonds on modern blades are welded on with lasers and can handle the heat better. But just because a blade is sold as a 'dry blade' doesn't mean that it won't cut faster and last longer if you keep it cool with water.

What diameter blade is needed?

Diamond blades come in many different sizes. The most common sizes are between 4 and 16 inches. Always use the size that the tool manufacturer recommends.

Types of Diamond bBlades

Segmented blades

These are the most popular general use blades and usually have medium to hard bonds Segmented blades are perfect for dry cutting because segmentation helps keep them cool. Segmented blades are commonly used to cut pavers, concrete and asphalt.

Serrated (turbo)

The serrated edges on these blades pushes the debris out of the way which allows them to make fast smooth cuts. Serrated turbo blades can be used in wet and dry applications. With the soft to medium bonds, this blade is good for cutting tile, natural stone, marble and granite.

Continuous blades

These are the cleanest cutting blades, which makes them ideal for cutting finished edges. These blades are the slowest cutting of the bunch, and they do require water to keep them cool. With their softer bonds they are best for cutting hard material like ceramic tile and porcelain.

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