10 Things to Consider When Buying Nonionic Surfactants

It can be challenging at times to conceptualize/imagine what a surfactant is doing from a spray tank mixture to a leaf surface. By the time a spray tank mixture (water, herbicide, Adjuvant/surfactant, etc.) is sprayed on to a leaf surface as liquid droplets, they are relatively small and indistinguishable from rain droplets to the naked eyes, and that which is taking place within the liquid droplet because of the surfactant is not always obvious. Our goal is to paint a clear picture of what the Nonionic surfactant functions within the mixture and its impact on the leaf surface.  

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As you may have heard many times over, a surfactant is a surface-acting-agent, and yes, this is true. You may have also heard that surfactant is a chemical substance that reduces the surface tension of a liquid, also true. The application of these definitions in relation to herbicide spray applications can be summarized as the ability of a chemical (called surfactant) to help liquid spray droplets spread across leaf surface. In addition to spreading, surfactants have features that allow for water and oil/oil-like chemicals to mix well. These features of surfactant are critical to why they are mandated on herbicide labels, so that there is reduction in over-using herbicides that possess the ability to significantly impact environment and those living within them.  

The term surfactant is generally used interchangeably with the term Adjuvants. Although, it should be noted that not all adjuvants are made up of surfactants, though most are. Within the Adjuvant formulation, surfactant make up, what is called, the Principal Functioning agent. Principal Functioning Agents (PFAs) are chemicals within an adjuvant formulation that play an important role in determining the features of the adjuvant. Many adjuvants have stated on their labels several Principal Functioning Agents. It is the combination of these PFAs that determines the features and overall classification of Adjuvants, such as Nonionic surfactants, Methylated Seed oil concentrates, High Surfactant Oil concentrates, etc. Hopefully we are not confused with the term nonionic surfactant which is also used to represent a type of surfactant. For the remainder of the article, we will use the term NIS when referring to the classification of adjuvants, and nonionic surfactants when referring to the type of surfactant based on its chemistry.  

It should be noted that there are two other type of surfactant worth mentioning, called Ionic and amphoteric surfactants, and these are sometimes used within the different types of Adjuvants, even Adjuvants that are classified as NIS. Some common ionic and amphoteric surfactants are Alkyl sulfates (anionic), alcohol ethoxylates phosphates (anionic), tallow amine ethoxylates (cationic) and lecithin/phosphatidylcholine (amphoteric). The different groups of surfactants, whether ionic or nonionic, are typically stated on Adjuvant labels.

Additionally, It is also important to be aware that other classifications of Adjuvants, other than NIS, may also contain nonionic surfactants in their formulations. However, the primary feature may not be because of the type of surfactant but due to the features of another component of the PFAs. For example, MSO concentrates, which is a type of adjuvant, are so called because ‘methylated seed oil’ provides the most important feature, among the PFAs that are present, to the MSO concentrate classification.

When choosing an adjuvant, the overall feature of the adjuvant along with the label recommendation classification should assist you in choosing an adjuvant to be used in your tank mix. For example, if spraying in relatively windy conditions and the label recommends using a NIS, a good choice would be a NIS that also has drift reduction features. Or if spraying in hot climate and a NIS is recommended, using a NIS with the added ability to reduce the rate of spray droplet evaporation would be a better choice.  

In summary, NIS causes your spray droplet to mix well in a tank and to spread well on a leaf surface. Both features are important to increasing the efficacy of herbicides where a NIS is recommended by the herbicide label. Brewer International supplies a variety of NIS surfactants: Big Sur 90 (APE-free/low foam), 90-10 surfactant (APE-free/low foam), Cide-Kick (penetrant/fragrant), Cide-kick II (penetrant/fragrant), Cide-kick II methylated (penetrant/fragrant), Sun Control (penetrant/buffer), PolyFilm R (APE-free/penetrant/fragrant), AquabupH (Sequestrant/Fragrant/buffer), Sun Control (APE-free/buffer/penetrant), SilNet200 (Premium APE-free NIS/low foam/slow drying), SilEnergy (low foam/slow drying). 

Updated: 18.02.25

At Formula Botanica, we often get asked about surfactants – those fascinating functional ingredients that make cleansing magic. So I thought, why not dedicate a post to them?

In this article, we’ll be taking an in-depth look at surfactants. While there are different kinds, we’ll focus exclusively on the ones used in cleansing and foaming products, as they’re the ones you’re most likely to use in your formulations, whether that’s in your facial cleansers, shower gels, body washes, or shampoos.

And while this is a more advanced topic, there’s no need to feel worried! In this post, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about surfactants, from what they are, why they’re so important, and how they work in water-based formulations. I’ll even share five of my favourite natural surfactants that you can experiment with and which will take your formulation skills to the next level. Ready to get started? Let’s dive in!

What are surfactants?

First, let’s discuss what surfactants are and how they work in formulations.

Surfactants, or surface active agents, are a versatile group of ingredients found across multiple industries, from food and construction to pharmaceuticals and personal care. In skincare and haircare, they act as functional ingredients and are mostly responsible for the cleansing and, in some cases, foaming properties of your favourite shower products.

But here’s a surprising fact: cleansing and foaming aren’t always connected. While some surfactants create the rich, bubbly lather that people typically associate with cleanliness, others are specifically designed to reduce or completely stop the foam. And while it can enhance the sensory appeal of a product, foam isn’t a true measure of how well it cleans.

Surfactants also include emulsifiers, solubilisers, dispersers, wetting agents and detergents. If you’re curious to learn about the difference between solubilisers and emulsifiers, check out this post:

Solubiliser vs. emulsifier: Which one do you need?

The chemical structure of surfactants

Now that you know what surfactants are, let’s discuss their chemical structure. Don’t worry: it’s very straightforward!

Surfactants have a water-loving (hydrophilic) head and a water-hating (hydrophobic) tail. As you can see from the chart below, the kind of charge contained within the water-loving head will determine the kind of surfactant you’re working with:

For more on the chemical structure of surfactants, check our Advanced Diploma in Organic Cosmetic Science.

How surfactants work

Surfactants are present in many cleansing products, and their effectiveness lies in their unique molecular structure and ability to interact with both oil and water. Let’s break down how these ingredients work to remove dirt and grime:

1. Introducing surfactants to the solution

When a surfactant is added to water, its molecules arrange themselves in a specific way. Each surfactant molecule has two key parts:

• A hydrophilic head that is water-loving and interacts easily with water
• A hydrophobic tail that is oil-loving and avoids water

2. Attachment to dirt and oils

Once introduced, the hydrophobic tails of the surfactant molecules seek out and attach themselves to dirt and oils. This happens because dirt is often oil-soluble, making the hydrophobic (lipophilic) tail the perfect match to bond with it.

3. Lifting and encapsulating dirt

The surfactant molecules then surround the dirt or oil particles, forming structures called micelles. The hydrophobic tails stay attached to the dirt, while the hydrophilic heads remain oriented toward the water. This action detaches the dirt or oil from the surface (be it skin, hair, or textiles) and suspends it in the solution.

4. Washing away dirt

The final step involves rinsing. The hydrophilic heads keep the encapsulated dirt suspended in water, allowing it to be washed away effortlessly. This process ensures that dirt is removed from the surface and carried out of the solution, leaving behind a clean and refreshed surface.

If you’d like to learn even more about the different types of surfactants and how they work, check out our Advanced Diploma in Organic Cosmetic Science.

Additional reading:
NINATE® 70B - Stepan
What is Sulfuric Acid For Sale and Why Do We Use Them?
Conveyor Belt

Are you interested in learning more about Nonionic Surfactants? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!

How to formulate with natural surfactants

Definition of “green” surfactants

At this point, you’re probably curious about how to formulate natural surfactants.

The term “natural” or “green” surfactant doesn’t have a universally accepted definition, so it can mean different things to different people. You can learn more about the different shades of natural in our first-ever podcast episode:

Episode 1: What does natural skincare mean?

Ultimately, the choice of surfactants is entirely up to you. When selecting your surfactants, consider the following factors:

• Biodegradability: Does the surfactant break down easily in the environment?
• Source: Is it derived from natural, renewable sources like plants? Is it animal-based?
• Irritation potential: Is it gentle on the skin and eyes?
• Environmental impact: What’s the carbon footprint?
• Ethical sourcing: Is it sustainably and ethically sourced?

Where to start

If you haven’t worked with surfactants before, I recommend you start with non-ionic surfactants. Here’s why:

• Compatibility: Non-ionic surfactants work harmoniously with other types of surfactants, making them versatile and easy to incorporate into formulations.
• Ease of use: They are beginner-friendly and straightforward to formulate with, making them ideal if you’re just starting to work with surfactants.
• Gentleness: These surfactants are mild on the skin and hair, which is especially important when creating products for sensitive skin or everyday use.
• Foaming capacity: While their foaming capacity varies, many non-ionic surfactants provide a pleasant sensory experience.

If you’re interested in learning more about non-ionic surfactants and how to use them in your skincare or haircare formulations, we cover them in our foundation Diploma in Organic Skincare Formulation and our Diploma in Organic Haircare Formulation. 

Examples of non-ionic surfactants

While non-ionic surfactants are generally interchangeable in theory, as a formulator, it’s important to be prepared for slight variations in how each one behaves within a formulation.

To help guide your formulation process, I’ve compared five of the most popular plant-derived non-ionic surfactants that you can experiment with:

• Coco Glucoside
• Decyl Glucoside
• Lauryl Glucoside
• Sucrose Cocoate
• Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Natural surfactants comparison table

Here’s a detailed comparison table to help you choose the best non-ionic surfactant for your formulations:

Surfactant Trade name Certification* Properties pH Active matter Coco Glucoside Sucranov™ 818 UP -BergaSoft CG 50 / MB EcoSense™ 919 Ecocert Very mild, good foam stabilising quality,  good hydrating properties, biodegradable ∼11.5 – 12.5 ≥ 50 % Decyl Glucoside BergaSoft DG 50 / MB -ORAMIX™ NS10 / Plantacare® UP -EcoSense™ Ecocert COSMOS Natrue Biodegradable, excellent and stable foam, works very well with Cocamidopropyl betaine ∼11.5 – 12.5 ≥ 50 % Lauryl Glucoside BergaSoft LG 50 / MB -EcoSense™ / Plantacare® UP Ecocert COSMOS Natrue Very mild, moderate foaming, excellent viscosity builder, good in baby cleansing products, biodegradable ∼11.5 – 12.5 ≥ 50 % Sucrose Cocoate TEGOSOFT® LSE 65 K Soft N/A Mild, increases foam density & viscosity, adds creaminess, has good re-fatting qualities, moisturising and anti-static, biodegradable ∼6.5-7.5 ∼65% Caprylyl/Capryl glucoside BergaSoft CCG 70 / MB -ORAMIX™ CG110 Ecocert COSMOS Natrue Creates fine and stable foam, mild, good solubiliser for essential oils, biodegradable ∼11.5 – 12.5 ≥ 50% (There are various versions)

*Certification – Whether the natural surfactant is available as a certified ingredient will depend on your supplier, but these ingredients are generally accepted by the listed certification bodies. You can find out more about green certifications here.

What is Active Surfactant Matter (ASM)?

The ASM is a percentage that represents the concentration of the surfactant. When you buy a surfactant, it won’t be delivered to you as a “pure” ingredient as such, but it will be diluted in water. If the ASM is 60%, this means the ingredient you’ve just purchased contains 60% surfactant and 40% water.

Knowing the ASM of your natural surfactant is important when deciding how much of your ingredient should be used in a cosmetic formulation. For example, you would use less natural surfactant in a facial cleanser than in a body cleanser, so your formulation is not so ‘harsh’ on the skin.

Which surfactant to use?

I conducted a simple foam test to see how well these natural surfactants perform when it comes to creating foam. While you now know that a product doesn’t need to foam to effectively clean your skin or hair, most people still expect their cleansers and shampoos to foam when they use them. That’s why many formulators aim to create a rich, dense lather to enhance the user experience.

For this test, I mixed five solutions, each containing 10% surfactant and 90% distilled water, and transferred them into foamer bottles (essential to create the foaming effect!). I then compared the foam produced by each solution, which you can see in the image below:

As you can see, all five natural surfactants produced foam, though some were more effective than others. Here are my observations:

• Decyl Glucoside stood out as the best performer, creating a rich, dense foam that really impressed me.
• Coco and Caprylyl/Capryl glucosides performed well, producing a decent amount of foam.
• Sucrose Cocoate and Lauryl Glucoside didn’t fare as well in the foaming test. The foam they produced collapsed pretty quickly, making them less ideal for this type of product/bottle. Sucrose Cocoate and Lauryl Glucoside are also both pastes, which means they need to be heated to properly dissolve. When mixed with water, Sucrose Cocoate produced a milky solution, which might not be suitable for clear formulations.
• Lauryl Glucoside created a clear solution but thickened slightly, suggesting it might not work well in the foamer bottle I’ve used. However, it could be an excellent option for formulations that benefit from a bit of extra thickness.

Which surfactant will you try first? Let me know in the comments below!

Join our free training course today

I hope you enjoyed this post and found it helpful!

If you’re ready to dive deeper into the fascinating world of skincare formulation, our free training course is the perfect starting point. You’ll learn how to make your own natural skincare products – even if you’ve ever done it before – and become a confident formulator instead of a simple recipe follower. Sign up now to start your free formulation journey!

And if you’ve already completed our free mini course, why not take the next step with our award-winning Diploma in Organic Skincare Formulation?

FAQ

• What is the best natural surfactant to start with?

Non-ionic surfactants are a fantastic way to start your journey into foaming products. They’re gentle and mild and can create a nice, rich foam. Plus, they’re highly versatile and work well with all other surfactants. 

• Can I mix different surfactants together?

Absolutely! In fact, mixing surfactants can help improve performance. Try blending surfactants from different charge groups, or even within the same group to see how they perform together.

• Do all natural surfactants foam the same?

No, not all natural surfactants foam the same way. Some may produce more foam, while others may create a lighter lather (or not at all!). It depends on the type of surfactant and the formulation you’re using.

• How do I know which surfactant is right for my product?

The right surfactant depends on your formulation goals. Consider the cleansing power, foaming ability, and overall gentleness you need. Testing and observation will guide you in finding the best fit for your product.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of Calcium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

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